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Picture me, if you will, at MIDE, the fifth province and mysterious centre of the very
heart of what we now know as Connaught, Ulster, Leinster and Munster. It is surely a
much more appropriate label than the "Midlands"! In pre-Christian times, it was at
Uisneach, the actual cosmic centre of Ireland (Eiru - Eire) in this mystical faith
province MIDE, that a doubly ringed fire was lit, a series of beacons to mark certain
times of the calendar. Because of its elevation these were visible from beaches, bogs
and by-ways throughout 20 counties. Legend has it that for the Autumn Equinox, the first
of these braziers would be lit at Uisneach and only then the second at the seat of the
high kings of Ireland, the HILL OF TARA.
Despite the regal title this was a meritocracy where kingship was earned by courage, good judgement and strength. The Hill of Tara has a truly enigmatic history. It is 30 km from Dublin and from the top of the hill, across the central plain the spectacular panorama unfolds to reveal to the northeast, the Mourne and Cooley Mountains and to the southeast, the Slieve Bloom Mountains. Most monuments at Tara were there for the purpose of ritual and it is probable that only the later remains were dwelling places. There are some burial grounds including barrows (circular burial mounds) and stone pillars. It is possible that Teach Miodhchuarta, the two parallel banks of earth may be the sight of the much famed great banqueting hall, immortalised in song, paintings and our imaginations. Although some archaeologists would contend that it was a dramatic entrance to the ceremonial top of the hill. Adjacent to the visitor centre, a former Church of Ireland place of worship (St Patrick's built 1822) is Rath na Seanadh, a place where ecclesiastical synods were once reputed to be held. St Patrick's lies near the traces of the medieval church that it replaced. The prominent statue of the patron saint outside the church it seems is placed there to symbolise the triumph of Christianity over Druidism? HAVE VAN WILL TRAVEL 20 ADMAG Some things we think we know, others disagree with. Some things we don't know, but others think they do and some things we shall never know. One thing is certain, Tara has always attracted controversy. The M3 motorway is under construction and at this point, it seems about to slice it's relentless way through the valley at Tara. The vigil to redirect the route of the motorway away from Tara was one year old in June and is ongoing. The aptly named medieval town of TRIM sits astride the River Boyne which by this time has gathered momentum as it winds its way to Drogheda. The twelfth century Norman castle stands proudly by the river, master of all it surveys whilst on the opposite bank, sits Talbot Castle, believed to be built on the basement of the original St Mary's Abbey. Next to it, like a giant finger pointing to the firmament, is the Yellow Steeple, belfry tower of the original Augustinian abbey, an important destination for pilgrims prior to the Reformation. About a mile up river lies the ruin of St Peter and Paul Cathedral built by the Norman Bishop, Simon de Rochfort In 1206, after his cathedral at Clonard burned down. At the time of building, it was the largest gothic Church in Ireland, and interestingly, where the graveyard appears to still be in use. The Bishop also built the Hospital of St. John the Baptist which can be found diagonally opposite, across the stone bridge over the Boyne. Shortly after it was built, the Crusader Order of Crutched Friars was founded there by the same bishop. By far the best way to visit this fascinating place is to leave the car in Trim and to walk (approx 25 minutes) along the river as there is not much in the way of parking facilities. Whilst Tara may have been the political centre of the country and perhaps more, Uisnech the cosmic and geographic, Trim in medieval times would have been the ecclesiastical epi-centre of Ireland! LINKS Meath Tourism: www.meathtourism.ie Save Tara: www.savetara.com The Vigil: www.tarasolidarityvigil.net |
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